Nine-thirty on a Sunday, Guildford Railway Station car park, and there's already a line of bikes being unloaded off racks before the shops have properly opened. That's the tell. Cycling the Swan Valley wineries has become the thing Perth people do instead of brunch, and once you've done the loop with a decent picnic in the pannier, you'll understand why it beats sitting in traffic on West Swan Road trying to find parking at Sandalford.

I've been riding bits of this valley since I was a kid, dragged along on my dad's old mountain bike while he stopped at every second cellar door for a taste he swore was